More Basic Groundwork 

Groundwork is the foundation for riding. Groundwork is the foundation for riding. Groundwork is the foundation for riding. Get it? We simply cannot shortcut groundwork! Everything you do on the ground with your horse should DIRECTLY relate to future work in the saddle. If is does not relate, don’t do it OR find another way to do it in order to make it relate! This is assuming that we are all looking at the same end goal of having our horse eventually saddled and ridden. 

What this means is: A horse responds to pressure. Pressure can be physical, mental, verbal, real or perceived. We apply pressure, get a response and GIVE A REWARD. The reward is the pressure being removed and possibly a verbal affirmation and a physical confirmation. This is the basis for training. 

An example of something that does NOT relate at all to riding is the method by which most handlers lead their horse: Pulling on a lead in front of the horse.

Nowhere in riding are we pulling on a horse’s head in front of his body. So why do it? The short answer is DON’T! Pulling on a horse’s head encourages nosing out, being heavy on the forehand and hollow in the back as well as potentially affecting the adjustment of the horse’s spine.  

Knowing what we know, let's begin with the basic groundwork of leading. Use a voice cue to ask for movement (“walk” works for walk) and teach by example. Specifically, apply the voice cue (verbal pressure) walk into the horses shoulder (the same place where the rein will apply indirect pressure someday) and the horse responds by moving. Once walking we give a verbal reward of “good boy” and reapply the voice as needed to stay in gait. That simple act taught several basic lessons:

  1. “Walk” means to move forward or sideways.
  2. We expect the horse to move when we invade his space or apply pressure (as when we walked into his shoulder).
  3. A reward is received for work done properly, encouraging a “willingness to please” attitude.

These lessons are taught under the assumption of a horse already knowing to give to pressure and seeking the reward (“good boy”) for doing so. 

As important as the cues and consistency in leading the horse is the body language of the handler. The person asking for the work should stand tall, be confident and stop square. If you doubt the affect of body language, try leading your horse while slouching, looking back and acting scared and then re-ask while standing tall, with confidence. Also, watch how the horse stops when you stop square versus how he stops if you stop in mid stride or with uncertainty. Far too often we unknowingly teach bad habits to our horses for years before they are even under saddle. Then we wonder why they are so difficult to “fix” later on. 

A few more “tips” in teaching leading:

  1. Don’t look back at the horse. This tells him not to follow. Expect him to follow and he will WANT to follow.
  2. Use verbal cues prior to physical cues. This sets the horse up to have far less anxiety during the training process. When strong physical cues are applied first, many horses perceive it as punishment. Our voice allows us to be better communicators as the horse is far superior to humans in this area.
  3. Don’t “wait” for the horse….just go. If he does not follow, resist the urge to pull on the rope (it does NOT relate to riding) instead, walk into his space to get movement. I suggest always walking into the shoulder when beginning leading.
  4. When stopping say WHOA in a low, long, consistent voice as you breathe out. This teaches you to relax when stopping (a better “seat” later on) and provides a clear “plan” to the horse as to what happens next. If the horse invades your space with even one foot at the whoa, he should be pushed back to his space and re-told WHOA. A long pause should follow the whoa (longer pauses as training progresses) followed by a verbal reward and possibly a physical reward depending on the situation. The physical reward should be something that can be applied while riding (not a treat). A scratch on the withers is appropriate. The pause teaches a horse to “wait” for the next cue and to delay the reward. DO NOT ACCEPT LESS THAN PERFECTION WHILE SCHOOLING THE WHOA!
 Another part of leading is learning how to ask the horse to drop his head. A horse adjusts head height in order to view objects at different distances. A horse with his head in the air is not looking at where his feet are falling, rather he is gazing at some distant potential “boogeyman”. This is the typical “spooky” horse. This horse is not focused on the task at hand. Instead, he is pre-occupied with something else and thus becomes a danger to be around. The horse should always be focused on the handler…. this is for our safety and for the safety of the horse.

We ask the horse to drop his head as part of any transition. This is an early way of teaching trust, focus and collection. The amount of drop and the position of the head, neck and shoulder depend on the breed being trained. The method for asking for the drop remains the same.

Using little downward “wiggles” on the rope ask the horse to lower his head. If he gives you an inch, TAKE IT and give a reward. With practice, the wiggles become very slight and the horse willingly drops his head lower until the wiggles stop. This will end up being a slight wiggle of the third finger for English riders seeking more bend or flex under saddle and for Western riders it is simply just picking up the rein and the horses head drops. The key is only asking when the head is up and allowing the horse to “be there” when he drops his head. If we persist in “bugging” a horse that has dropped his head, we have failed at providing the reward of taking the pressure away and he ceases to perform the task. In the beginning, the horse will frequently raise his head and need to be “re-asked” to drop. This is normal and the handler needs to stay fair and consistent with the request and the reward. 

When the horse is leading well, add the head drop at each stop/start and as needed during the leading. The two skills together will provide an excellent foundation for collected transitions, square stops, engaged trots/jogs and proper walks. These exercises can also be done with a bridle and bit after they are mastered with a halter and lead. 

Trouble shooting:

  1. “My horse will only walk in circles (when I push into his shoulder) and locks up when I try to walk straight”. Try carrying a dressage stick and reinforce the “walk” cue with a tap of the stick ONLY where your leg will fall when saddled. Always use voice first and only apply the stick to where the leg will touch. The stick must be used instantly after the voice command and not as a punishment. This is only for horses not walking off straight after days of groundwork.
  2. “My horse pulls back on the rope when we work on leading”. This horse does not have an established trust relationship and does not know how to give to pressure. Leading is started after these basic skills/relationships exist.
  3. “My horse ALWAYS invades my space when I stop”. This is due to you ALLOWING it to happen. Establish your space and then NEVER allow the horse to invade it (correct any infractions with the method given above). You may invade his space (fairly) when needed.
  4. “My horse calls to his friends and won’t pay attention to me during the work”. Start the work in a safe area closer to his “friends” where you can establish your ability to “protect” him and he gains respect for you. Gradually move the work to another area farther away as he becomes more self confident and more confident in you.
  5. “My horse will not drop his head”. Ask for just a little bit and reward him. Don’t expect a big drop in the beginning….it will happen as he gains trust in you. Be fair and consistent in the request and the reward