Assessing Horse Behavior

An in depth article on Assessing Horse Behavior is available in the February issue of Today’s Horse Trader Magazine. It would be extremely helpful to read that prior to using the information in this month’s training tip. If you don’t have access to the magazine, e-mail me and I’ll be glad to send you a copy of the article! 

I am going to assume that you already know why your horses is displaying a behavior, based on the sound judgment of a professional or investigative work leading to a very focused set of circumstances. Once you have arrived there, and ONLY once you have arrived there should you start to work on eliminating the behavior. If you shortcut and assume, you will simply rid the horse of one behavior until he chooses a new, potentially more dangerous means of expressing his response. 

As always, get professional help if the behavior is dangerous or potentially dangerous. Eliminate medical problems as behavior causes before proceeding. 

THE RUNAWAY

…is responding to a potential/perceived/real danger. Keep him safe, build self confidence and reliance on you. Reward the whoa. Teach him that whoa is safe place and then PROTECT him there! Re-school whoa on the ground and then while riding in a safe place. Harsher bits only postpone the next episode. THIS IS A DANGEROUS BEHAVIOR! 

 THE REARING HORSE

…is trying to avoid a real/perceived danger, feels he can’t run away. Also can be due to excess energy. Investigate his motivation for doing his work. Do not revert to harsher equipment or punishment. Re-school in a safe area and work on relationship building.

Use of tight circles when behavior occurs is helpful. THIS IS A DANGEROUS BEHAVIOR! 

THE BUCKING HORSE

…is bucking from pain (real or perceived) or due to motivational issues. Also can be an energy issue. Eliminate/deal with pain problems due to tack, rider/horse compatibility, appropriate workload etc… Motivational issues need long-term changes in how the horse perceives work. Small, tight circles help when bucking occurs. This is a potentially dangerous behavior. 

THE BITING HORSE

…is a danger to you and others around the horse. Biting can start as play and become inappropriate behavior if boundaries are not in place. Re-establish that your space is YOUR space and the horse is never allowed to enter your space…period. Also make sure your horse is not in pain. Assess the context in which the biting occurs. 

THE HORSE THAT DOESN’T TIE

…is a smart horse. I do not tie my horses in the open and leave them unattended…period. I know MANY people will disagree with me and say my answer is not practical but if you tie him up and remove his natural ability to protect himself by not allowing him to runaway YOU OWE IT TO HIM to stay nearby and protect him (this might include looping the rope and not really tying hard and fast). I have seen too many tied horses bitten by dogs, attacked by other horses or hit by people. I will leave mine in the trailer or tied to a sliding high-line ONLY when I am with them. Once a horse has learned to pull back on a rope you have a life-long struggle with resistance. I have not seen ANY method that permanently changes the behavior of a puller. The best hope I have seen is quick-release bungee ties, some portable corrals and thoughtful/patient owners. 

THE HORSE THAT DOESN’T LOAD

…is not really halter broke. The issue here isn’t about the trailer, it’s about the handler and the horses trust in him. Break the steps of loading down into pieces that offer success and safety. Taking your time and establishing trust is the only long-tern method that lasts. It also helps to NOT drive like an idiot when you have the horse in the trailer. If you’re not sure what that means, I’ll guarantee you’re guilty! 

THE HEAD TOSSER

…is telling you something. Check medical reasons first: teeth, ears, infection, insects? Look at yourself: Are you always on-the-reins? Pulling or hanging on the lead? Overworking the horse to the point of frustration? Not allowing for adequate free time in a large turn-out? If none of these apply (and this is VERY rare) you may have to use medication or other methods to deal with the problem. 

KICKERS

…express fear in the form of anger or fight because they feel they have no other choice. Typically these horses have little self-confidence and have been pushed too far too fast. Or, they have been kicked before and are fearful of being kicked again. Provide a safe environment with appropriate challenges. Protect the horse while being trailered (from himself and others). Use verbal punishment whenever kick threat appears. This is a potentially dangerous behavior. 

BARN SOUR

…is typically a human created problem. This horse feels that you are not capable of protecting him and has a strong desire to remain with the “herd” (barn, stall, other horses etc…). You need to establish trust and respect and then maintain it. A horse properly started and maintained looks forward to going out to work. Other barn sour behavior has to do with work load (too much) and free time (too little). This is more common among livery horses who are already with the “herd” but need/want time off from work. 

TAIL SWISHING/EAR PINNING

…are signaling behaviors that inform you of a horses discomfort. The discomfort may be due to physical pain or impending pain, or psychological stress due to another animals proximately. If it occurs while riding, specifically when giving a cue, try using voice commands prior to a physical aid….voice commands usually eliminate swishing/pinning if done consistently (assuming the horse has no medical problem) 

SPOOKING

…is a response to fear, perceived fear or excess energy. It is more common among so called high-strung horses. Assess body condition and diet first, then address the fear through appropriate confidence building exercises. Make sure an issue with vision, hearing or other function is not present. 

THE OBNOXIOUS PET

…is a trainer’s nightmare. Horses are large, powerful, herd animals FIRST and pets second. If a horse is treated like a dog and allowed to invade your space (push and rub) eventually, you or someone else will get hurt. This horses future is not good. Don’t allow space-invading behavior from the start. If you already have allowed it, create strict boundaries and then be consistent in enforcement.  

THE HORSE THAT CAN’T BE CAUGHT

….doesn’t exist. Assess what you do with the horse when you catch him. Change your habits and catch him some times for no other reason than to groom or feed him. This (as with most others) is a human-created problem. 

If you would like to see other behaviors addressed here, e-mail me and I’ll add them onto the list!